Washing, Drying and Ironing
Washing
As mentioned in the previous chapter always start with the washing when you first arrive. Sort loads into similar colours, checking the pockets for items that need to be removed; check shirts for cufflinks; and read the labels for special instructions – it is best not to take chances. If the washing instructions say “Dry Clean only” – don’t wash it. If doing a dark load use cold water in case the colours run.
Washing machines are basically divided into front loading and top loading. Top loaders usually have a dial that is turned to the correct setting and pulled out. Front loaders usually have a pull-out drawer for detergent and a push button on/off. They often have a delay – when the cycle finishes you have to turn the machine off and wait a few minutes.
In the event that the cycle does not start, open and re-close the door, as the door may need to be closed more firmly. Also, check that the power is on and that the taps are on. Then check the dial – turn it a bit further around and pull it out again. The machine should start now that you have tried all these things. Always check – is the machine draining into a sink? If so, is the sink empty?
Hand washing should be done with warm water and mild detergent. Once you have washed the garment you then need to dry it out in the ‘spin only’ cycle in the washing machine to get as much water out as possible. Jumpers must be laid out flat to dry, and it is a good idea to find a similar coloured towel to lay them on in case the colour runs.
When cleaning the washing machine itself – Pull out and detach the soap powder dispenser drawer from the machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Clean the dispenser thoroughly with warm water, using a washing-up brush to remove all traces of powder from the corners.
Clean the outside of the washing machine with a mild detergent and warm water, and wipe dry with a soft cloth. Rust deposits inside the drum may be removed with a scouring powder.
Cleaning the filters – Each inlet hose usually has two filters, one at the open end connected to the water supply and one at the machine connection end; some manufacturers recommend that the filters at the machine connections be cleaned only by a professional.
To clean a filter at the open end, first turn off the water supply and unscrew the knurled coupling that connects the hose to the tap. Remove the washer from the hose end then use long-nosed pliers to prise out the plastic or metal filter. Rinse the filter under running water to wash out dirt and grit particles. Replace the filter and washer, and then re-attach the hose to the tap.
Clean the filters about twice a year for your clients, and check the hose wear for damage. Let your client know to replace defective hoses with new ones that will withstand the water pressure specified by the manufacturer.
Drying
When reading the instructions on the label on how to wash a garment, look for how to dry the garment as well. The same rules for washing also apply to drying – if in doubt, don’t take a risk putting clothes into the dryer if you feel that they may shrink or tear ie: lace, wools and silks.
The absolute best way to dry clothes is in the sun – they come up smelling fresh and wonderful, but sometimes you have no choice as to what to do in wet weather. When hanging clothes on the line make sure that the pegs grip the garment well so that it does not fly away in the wind.
When forced to use a dryer, always clean the lint filter before each load and leave it clean. The filter is usually located on the inside of the door but can also be at the back of the barrel within the dryer itself. Lift the filter out and pick off all the fluff, using a long-handled brush if need be to clear the air vent as well. While the dryer is running it is a good idea to turn on the fan or to open a window in order to avoid fogging up the windows.
Always try to wash, dry and put away as much as possible – think how nice it would be to return home from work yourself and find everything done.
Ironing
Before commencing ironing, check that the iron has plenty of water in it – an iron full of water is so much easier to use.
Make sure there are enough hangars, and check the temperature of the iron – cool for silks (and no Fabulon) and warm to hot for linens and cottons, especially business shirts. Remember to do up the second button from the top on collared shirts so that they stay on the hangar and don’t crush. When ironing, make sure there is only one crease down the arms of business shirts and the leg fronts of trousers – no double creases!
Fabulon will make the job much easier and more professional, but be careful not to spray the product onto wooden floors as it makes them very slippery. This could result in your client having a fall, for which you could be held liable.
When ironing/pressing woolens always cover with a damp cloth (hankie or t-towel) and then iron.
If asked to clean the iron (non-Teflon only) use a proper iron cleaner, or scrub the face of the iron with Jif or Gumption and a plastic scourer. Be sure to wash off these products well before you commence ironing again, as they will stain – especially white shirts – nothing worse.
Candle Wax can be removed from clothing or linen by ironing with plenty of brown paper. The heat of the iron melts the wax and the paper absorbs it.